Fragrance Technologies and Applications

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Odors play an important role in our everyday emotional states. The signals from our noses are processed in a section of the brain that controls memory and emotion, and so a simple aroma can induce feelings of comfort or warn of danger. This eBook investigates the complexity of scents and delves into the history of fragrance use in the products we use to clean ourselves, our clothes and our homes -- an industry that currently is worth $22 billion a year. Perfumers aim to create olfactory experiences by blending individual fragrances with different properties but complementary effects. The compounds go into household products including perfumes and colognes, air fresheners, fragranced candles, soaps and shampoos. Even though they are used in very small quantities, a view persists among many consumers that artificial fragrances cause physical irritations. As a result of this sensitivity, the fragrance industry has established two self-regulating bodies to ensure that fragrances are safe. Those organizations and government regulations on labelling are reviewed, as well as restrictions adopted toward the use of certain substances. Despite new fragrances being introduced over the last 150 years, great potential exists for developing new aromatic compounds that are more chemically stable and can be used more flexibly. This eBook concludes with an overview of current research trends, including the use of fragrance molecules containing silicon atoms and the first fragrances produced through the fermentation of genetically engineered microorganisms.

Introduction and Methodology

Introduction
Methodology
Definitions

State of the Global Fragrance Industry

Introduction
Fragrance Market
Legislation
Self-Regulation of Fragrances
Toxicity, Sensitisation and Biodegradation
Analysis and Testing Of Fragrances
Quantifying Fragrance

Trends in Fragrance Chemistry

Science of Smell
Physical Chemistry of Smell
Fragrance Compounds
- Natural Products and Essential Oils
- Natural Products, Musks
- Aroma Compounds
- Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen Aliphatic
Compounds
- Terpenes
- Acyclic Terpenes
- Cyclic Terpenes
- Other Cycloaliphatic Fragrances
- Aromatic Compounds
- Heterocyclics Containing Other Elements
- Fragrances Containing Silicon
Pro-Fragrances
Encapsulation of Fragrances
Malodour Counteractants
Fragrances used as Indicators

End-use Applications

Introduction
Surfactants, Micelles and Emulsions
Chemical Stability of Fragrances
Perfumes
Air Fresheners
- Diffusion Devices
- Candles
- Spray Air Fresheners
Personal-care Formulations
- Soap
- Hair Shampoos
- Shower Gels
- AntipersSmithers Pirants and Deodorants
- Gels
- Aerosols
Fabric Care
Household-care Products
- Dishwashing Detergents
- Bleaches

Future Trends

Introduction
Environmental and Green Issues
- Sensitisation by Fragrances and Animal Testing
- Natural vs. Synthetic Fragrances
- Other Green Issues
The Search for New Fragrances
- Using Clues from Nature
- Serendipity
- Synthesis of Analogues
- Ligand-Olfactory Receptor Modelling
- Structure-Activity Relationship (SAR)
Manufacture of Fragrances by Biotechnology

References

Appendix

Tables & Figures

List of Tables
TABLE 1.1 Terpene nomenclature
TABLE 2.1 Global flavour and fragrance market, 2010
TABLE 2.2 The 26 potentially allergenic fragrance ingredients
TABLE 2.3 IFRA/RIFM quantitative risk assessment criteria (QRA) for fragrances, June 2010
TABLE 3.1 Major essential oils, and oils of particular interest for home-care products
TABLE 4.1 Typical perfume and cologne formulations
TABLE 4.2 Typical aerosol air-freshener formulation
TABLE 4.3 Typical hair-shampoo formulation
TABLE 4.4 Typical shower-gel formulation
TABLE 4.5 Typical antipersSmithers Pirant aerosol-spray formulation
TABLE 4.6 Composition of typical European powder and liquid heavy duty detergents
TABLE 7.1 List of fragrances

List of Figures
FIGURE 2.1 Global sales of fragrances by region
FIGURE 2.2 Headspace method of trapping the scent of a flower in the field
FIGURE 2.3 GC-MS of trapped scent of Turbinicarpus pseudomacrochele ssp. Krainzianus flower (insert)
FIGURE 3.1 Human olfactory system
FIGURE 3.2 Schematic diagram of the cell membrane of olfactory receptor cells
FIGURE 3.3 Schematic diagram of the effect of different fragrance molecules on olfactory receptor cells
FIGURE 3.4 Functional groups found in fragrances
FIGURE 3.5 Structure of pinenes
FIGURE 3.6 Photosensitive pro-fragrance adduct
FIGURE 3.7 Structure of capsules, core-shell and matrix
FIGURE 3.8 Spray-drying tower
FIGURE 3.9 Complex coacervation
FIGURE 3.10 Formation of melamine-formaldehyde capsules
FIGURE 3.11 Polysaccharides used to encapsulate fragrances
FIGURE 3.12 Representations of cyclodextrin
FIGURE 4.1 Structure of surfactants
FIGURE 4.2 Schematic diagram of surfactant micelles
FIGURE 4.3 Stabilisers for fragrances
FIGURE 4.4 Aerosol spray can
FIGURE 4.5 Soap manufacturing chemistry
FIGURE 4.6 Cationic surfactants